![]() Also in 2020, longtime coffee roaster Aadel Kersh opened his new Kersh Kaffe in a former porcelain factory, where the sprawling space includes the roastery and a full restaurant making pizza on the weekends. At Svedjan Bageri, which opened in fall of 2020, the cafe uses milk, butter and cheese from owner Alfred Hellström’s family dairy north of Stockholm. Helping define the modern scene are spots like acclaimed bakery Bageri Petrus, founded by baker Petrus Jakobsson and inspired by his memories of afternoon fika with his grandmother. It’s younger, more vibrant, and more avant-garde compared to the old school bakeries of the past.” “In today’s modern coffee scene, there are more offerings of single-origin or single-estate coffees to go with the (still) traditional cinnamon or cardamum buns. You would always have a fika in the afternoon-socializing and getting a caffeine and sugar boost to finish the work day,” explains Öner Kulbay, co-owner of Stockholm Roast with Johan Montan Ahlgren. “In the old days, fika was kind of mandatory in the workplace, especially in Sweden with a big industrial segment and a lot of office workers. While the practice of fika is rooted in tradition, as the coffee scene evolves so does the manner in which people choose to take a coffee break. “It can be for anything-someone popping around your home to see you, breaking some very important news, or a momentous occasion.”Ī fika spread at Komet Stockholm. “As an outsider coming into Sweden, you really see how important fika is,” says Leighton. Alm’s partner and co-owner is U.K.-native Stephen Leighton, who founded Hasbean Coffee and relocated to Sweden to work with Drop Coffee. Since opening in 2009, Drop Coffee has consistently been a leader in Stockholm’s specialty coffee scene, with Swedish Coffee Roasting Champion Joanna Alm at the helm. “Especially now, when you can see that people where affected by the restrictions, they are very glad to be able to meet for a fika again.” It is a big part of a Swede’s everyday life,” says Hosep Seropian. Now with two locations in Stockholm, the cafe began roasting their own coffee beans last year and was named one of the best coffee shops in the 2021 Svenska Gastronomipriset by Restaurangvärlden magazine. Cafe Pascal, owned by siblings Hosep, Jannet, and Arman Seropian, is beloved for its creative baked goods like saffron brioche with black currant and raspberry filling. You would be hard-pressed to find a café in Sweden that doesn’t serve them,” says Anna Brones. “The most iconic fika item is the cinnamon or cardamom bun. While a cup of coffee is an obvious component of the ritual (fika literally translates as coffee), it almost always includes a snack of some kind. “ a moment when you leave whatever you do and sit down for a coffee (or tea) somewhere else-alone or with others.”-Johanna Kindvall It’s a moment when you focus on something else.” In our March/April issue, we took a photographic tour of Stockholm’s current coffee scene and spoke with cafe owners, bakers and coffee roasters about what fika means today. “It’s a moment when you leave whatever you do and sit down for a coffee (or tea) somewhere else-alone or with others. Together with writer Anna Brones, Kindvall released the book Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break. “A fika is not the same as grabbing a cup of coffee on the go, or having one at your work desk,” says Johanna Kindvall, an illustrator who splits her time between her native Sweden and Brooklyn. It is both a celebration and a respite-a chance to catch up with friends, family or co-workers as well as a moment to take pause and simply relax. In few places is this more fully embraced than Sweden, where the long-held tradition of fika remains part of the modern coffee culture. arrow arrowĪ coffee break can be so much more than a dose of caffeine. Barista Xavier Dubost (left) and owner and baker Nicolas Viry of Komet Stockholm. Guests enjoy a fika at the historic Kaffekoppen in Stockholm's Gamla Stan neighborhood. Hosep and Jannet Seropian, two of the owners of Cafe Pascal. Owners of Stockholm Roast, Öner Kulbay and Johan Montan Ahlgren. A classic kanelbullar (cinnamon bun) at Bageri Petrus. Drop Coffee's café location in Stockholm. One of the café spaces of Johan & Nyström, an early pioneer in Sweden's specialty coffee scene. Coffee roaster and co-owner of Drop Coffee Joanna Alm. A bag of coffee roasted by Kersh Kafferosteri. Petrus Jakobsson, baker and founder of Bageri Petrus. A traditional semla pastry at Bageri Petrus. Barista Thilda Martelleur at Mellqvist Kaffebar, a neighborhood favorite for 25 years. Kaffeverket (and its Stockholm sister cafés Gast, Cirkus, and Kavalleriet) embody the fika mentality with bright, welcoming spaces.
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